by J. Robertson Miller, 2023
This beautiful church is also a landmark. International Tourist ranks it as the most visited church in Panamá City.
The parish is called Parroquia Nuestra Señora Del Carmen, Our Lady of Mount Carmel Parish and the church is Iglesia del Carmen or Carmen Church. Iglesia is the Spanish word for church.
The first time I visited, the church was prepared for a wedding to be held that afternoon. Flowers decorated the front of the church, dainty bouquets were tied to the end of each pew and there was a white canopy out front where the newly married couple would stand to greet guests and receive congratulations. The flowers lightly perfumed the air.
Efforts to build this church complex began by talks with the Order of Discalced Carmelites. By 1944, Father Telesforo Larrazábal was working to clear bureaucratic hurdles. Construction of the Monastery began in February 1947 and was completed in September.
The Carmelites wanted a beautiful church. It is said to be inspired by the late 14th century Gothic styles of Toledo, Spain. Some people see resemblance to Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris.
Architect José Félix Villalobo Arriba drew up the plans. Work began in July 1947. The new church was formally blessed and consecrated by Church and civil VIPs in 1953, but work didn’t really finish until 1955.
The altar was a problem. Materials, durable in Europe, disintegrated in the Panamanian heat and humidity. By 1981 it had to be demolished.
Mario de Ayala, a master of stained glass and mosaics was selected for his expertise. He created the rose window, 18 large stained glass windows and 30 smaller ones.
Mosaics cover an area of 120 square meters. They used over a million pieces of ceramic, glass and gold in not less than 300 shades of color. Impressive.
The final changes came with the installation of the Reloj del Milenio (Millennium Clock), and, thankfully, air conditioning. The church also contains a museum of religious artifacts.
Allow time to fully appreciate the stained glass windows and mosaic details. This is a working church, not just a museum or art gallery. The schedule of Masses are posted, time your visit before or after to be sure the church is open.
